A leather jacket can be described in several different ways at once.
A jacket might be a café racer in style, made from goatskin, use full-grain leather, have a waxed finish, and be cut in a regular fit.
That is why shopping by a phrase such as “types of leather jackets” can become confusing very quickly. Terms referring to silhouette, animal hide, grain, surface, finish, construction, and intended use are often mixed together as though they mean the same thing.
They do not.
The simplest way to understand leather jackets is to separate those categories first. Once that distinction is clear, comparing a biker jacket with an A-2 bomber, choosing lambskin instead of cowhide, or deciding between smooth leather and suede becomes much easier.
This guide explains the major leather-jacket styles, the materials used to make them, construction details worth checking, and how to choose a jacket according to fit, climate, wardrobe and intended use.
What Actually Defines a Type of Leather Jacket?
Before comparing jacket styles, it helps to separate the terminology used to describe them.
| Category | Examples | What It Tells You |
|---|---|---|
| Style / silhouette | Biker, café racer, bomber, A-1, A-2, B-3, trucker | The shape and design |
| Leather species | Cowhide, goatskin, lambskin, sheepskin | What animal the leather comes from |
| Grain / surface | Full grain, top grain, suede | How the leather surface is prepared |
| Finish | Smooth, waxed, distressed, vintage | How the finished surface looks and feels |
| Construction | Quilted, shearling, rib-knit, lined | How the garment is built |
| Intended use | Fashion, winter wear, motorcycle protection | What the jacket is designed to do |
This distinction matters.
Suede, for example, is not one specific jacket silhouette. Suede can be used to make a bomber, trucker, café racer or western jacket.
Likewise, cowhide is not a jacket style. It is a material that can be used across many silhouettes.
Main Types of Leather Jackets
Leather-jacket styles developed around different uses, from aviation and motorcycle clothing to workwear, military outerwear and tailoring. Modern fashion frequently adapts those original patterns, so a jacket does not need to be an exact historical reproduction to belong to a recognizable style family.
1. Double Rider or Biker Jacket
The double-rider jacket is one of the most recognizable leather-jacket silhouettes.
It usually features:
- asymmetric front zipper
- wide lapels
- snap-down collar or lapel points
- multiple zip pockets
- waist belt or adjustment
- cropped or waist-length body
- prominent metal hardware
Its design grew from motorcycle clothing, although many modern interpretations are made primarily as fashion outerwear.
The asymmetric closure and layered front give the double rider a more visually aggressive appearance than most other leather-jacket styles.
Good leather choices
Cowhide works particularly well where a firmer, more substantial structure is wanted. Goatskin and lambskin can create softer fashion interpretations with less stiffness.
The appropriate leather depends on whether the goal is rugged structure, lighter everyday comfort or a particular surface character.
Best for
Statement styling, punk-influenced wardrobes, casual wear and motorcycle-inspired fashion.
Ebon Saint's Punk Leather Jackets collection shows how studs, spikes, hardware and distressed finishing can push the basic biker silhouette further into punk styling.
A fashion biker jacket should not automatically be treated as protective riding equipment. Protective motorcycle clothing is a separate subject covered later in this guide.
2. Café Racer Jacket
The café racer is the cleaner relative of the traditional biker jacket.
Instead of broad lapels and an asymmetric closure, it normally uses:
- center-front zipper
- short band or snap collar
- minimal exterior detailing
- straight or slightly fitted body
- zipped or simple cuffs
- streamlined pockets
Its restrained design is one reason it remains one of the easiest motorcycle-influenced jacket shapes to incorporate into an everyday wardrobe.
For a different interpretation of the streamlined café-racer silhouette, Ebon Saint also offers the Corduroy Moto Jacket in Cafe Racer Style, combining the clean racer shape with textured corduroy rather than leather.
Good leather choices
Cowhide gives the jacket more structure. Goatskin can balance strength with moderate weight, while lambskin creates a softer, more fashion-oriented café racer.
Best for
Buyers who want motorcycle influence without the broad lapels, asymmetrical closure or heavier visual hardware of a double rider.
3. A-1 Bomber Jacket
The A-1 bomber jacket stands apart from later flight jackets because of its button-front construction.
Typical characteristics include:
- button closure
- rib-knit collar
- rib-knit cuffs
- rib-knit waistband
- waist-length body
- front patch or flap pockets
The A-1 silhouette generally feels softer and more heritage-oriented than zipper-front bombers.
Leather choice can change its character significantly. Soft lambskin produces a refined interpretation, while goatskin can create a more textured and substantial result.
Ebon Saint's A-1 Bomber Jacket in Brown is an example of the button-front approach.
4. A-2 and Leather Flight Bomber Jackets
The A-2 is one of the most recognizable leather flight-jacket forms.
The Smithsonian's National Air and Space Museum notes that the U.S. Air Corps ordered changes to the A-1 in 1931, replacing the button front with a zipper and the knit collar with a leather fall collar to create the Type A-2. See the Smithsonian A-2 record .
Typical A-2-inspired details include:
- center-front zipper
- shirt or point collar
- rib-knit cuffs
- rib-knit waistband
- waist-length body
- utility-style front pockets
Compared with an A-1, the most obvious visual difference is normally the use of a zipper rather than a full button front.
Modern leather flight bombers can use cowhide, goatskin, lambskin or other leather depending on the desired weight, feel and interpretation.
Explore Ebon Saint's Leather Bomber Jackets to compare different bomber constructions and materials.
The bomber family also extends beyond strict A-1 or A-2 interpretations. Modern V-bomber jackets, for example, use the broader bomber vocabulary while changing the neckline, proportion or construction to create a more contemporary silhouette.
Explore Ebon Saint's V-Bomber Jackets for another branch of the bomber category.
5. G-1 and Aviator Jackets
The G-1-style jacket belongs to the wider family of aviation outerwear but usually has a noticeably different personality from an A-2.
Common design cues include:
- leather flight-jacket body
- prominent collar, often shearling or shearling-inspired
- rib-knit cuffs and waistband
- central zipper
- practical front pockets
Modern fashion versions may use genuine shearling, faux shearling or another collar treatment, so the material specification matters more than the word “aviator” alone.
6. B-3 and Genuine Shearling Jackets
A genuine B-3 is fundamentally different from an ordinary leather jacket with a separate fleece lining.
Traditional shearling construction uses sheepskin with its natural wool retained, allowing the leather and wool to remain part of the same skin.
The Smithsonian records that the U.S. Army Air Corps issued the Type B-3 flying coat in 1934 for open-cockpit and high-altitude flying. View the Smithsonian B-3 record .
Recognizable B-3 features can include:
- substantial wool-bearing sheepskin
- oversized shearling collar
- exposed wool at selected edges
- robust front zipper
- short aviation silhouette
- waist adjustment on some designs
A genuine shearling jacket generally feels heavier and more substantial than an ordinary lined leather bomber.
Warmth depends on more than wool length alone. Density, coverage, collar construction, garment fit, wind exposure, activity and layering all matter.
Explore Ebon Saint's Real Shearling Jackets for B-3, RAF-inspired and other genuine sheepskin styles.
For a genuine shearling interpretation of the aviation silhouette, the Men's B3 Shearling Jacket in Brown combines wool-bearing sheepskin with the substantial proportions associated with B-3 outerwear.
7. Leather Trucker Jacket
The trucker silhouette comes from classic workwear.
Its most recognizable features are usually:
- straight or slightly cropped body
- shirt-style collar
- button front
- chest flap pockets
- defined panel construction
Leather gives the familiar trucker pattern more structure and weight than denim.
Good materials
Cowhide works well where structure is important, while goat or lamb suede can create a softer, more relaxed version.
The trucker is particularly useful for transitional seasons because it layers naturally over T-shirts, shirts and light knitwear.
8. Western and Fringe Leather Jackets
Western leather jackets are defined less by one exact pattern and more by a family of ranch and cowboy-inspired details.
These may include:
- fringe
- yokes
- studs
- conchos
- western panel shapes
- contrast leather
- suede
- hair-on cowhide
A western jacket can therefore overlap with trucker, biker or cropped silhouettes.
Suede works particularly well for softer ranch-inspired pieces, while smooth cowhide creates a firmer structure.
Hair-on cowhide creates another distinct variation because the natural hair and markings remain part of the visible surface. No two natural hides need to carry exactly the same pattern.
Explore Ebon Saint's Cowhide Jackets for natural hair-on cowhide outerwear and western-inspired styles.
9. Varsity Leather Jacket
The varsity or letterman jacket is recognizable through its sportswear construction.
Common features include:
- rib-knit collar
- ribbed cuffs
- ribbed waistband
- snap or button closure
- contrast sleeves
- patches or embroidery on some versions
Traditional varsity jackets often combine textile bodies with leather sleeves, although fully leather versions are also produced.
This silhouette works particularly well where buyers want a relaxed, casual jacket rather than an overtly motorcycle or aviation-influenced design.
10. Leather Blazer
A leather blazer borrows its structure from tailored jackets rather than motorcycle or flight clothing.
Typical characteristics include:
- notch or peak lapels
- one, two or three-button closure
- tailored front
- longer body than many bombers
- cleaner pocket construction
Because the garment needs to drape more naturally, softer leather often suits blazers better than excessively firm hides.
Lambskin is therefore a useful option where a smooth, flexible silhouette is wanted.
11. Leather Field Jacket
Field jackets originate from utility clothing.
Their defining characteristic is usually storage and function, often through multiple front pockets.
A leather interpretation may include:
- four-pocket front
- stand or shirt collar
- longer body than a bomber
- zip and/or snap closure
- waist adjustment
Because this silhouette contains more panels and pockets, leather temper becomes especially important.
Leather that is too soft may not hold the intended structure, while excessively rigid leather can make the garment uncomfortable.
12. Leather Peacoat
The peacoat is a naval-inspired double-breasted design.
Common features include:
- broad lapels
- double-breasted button front
- structured shoulders
- longer body
- hand pockets
A leather peacoat typically feels more formal than a bomber or biker jacket.
The longer body means the leather needs enough drape to move naturally while retaining the double-breasted structure.
13. Leather Trench Coat
A leather trench is technically closer to a coat than a short jacket, but it belongs within the broader leather outerwear category and is frequently compared with leather jackets.
Common features include:
- longer length
- belt
- broad lapels
- double-breasted construction on many versions
- storm-flap or military-inspired details
The larger amount of leather means both weight and temper become particularly important.
A hide that works perfectly for a cropped biker jacket may feel unnecessarily heavy when used across a long trench.
Explore Ebon Saint's Leather Trench Coats for longer leather outerwear built around the trench silhouette.
14. Quilted and Padded Leather Jackets
“Quilted” describes a construction method rather than one fixed silhouette.
Quilting can appear on:
- biker jackets
- bombers
- cropped leather jackets
- insulated leather outerwear
It can be decorative or functional.
A quilted panel does not automatically mean that a leather jacket is insulated.
Some fashion moto jackets use diamond quilting without padding, while insulated leather jackets may contain synthetic fill beneath the shell.
Always check what is actually inside the quilted construction rather than judging warmth from the stitch pattern alone.
Leather Materials, Grain & Finish
Style describes the shape of a jacket. The material determines much of how that shape feels, drapes, wears and develops over time.
Is Suede a Type of Leather Jacket?
Not in the same sense as a bomber or biker jacket.
Suede describes the leather surface rather than a fixed jacket silhouette.
A suede jacket can therefore be:
- a bomber
- a trucker
- a biker
- a western jacket
- an overshirt
- a cropped jacket
Suede has a raised surface known as the nap. Nap direction changes the way light reflects from the leather, which is why genuine suede can appear darker or lighter after it is brushed or touched.
Explore Ebon Saint's Suede Leather Jackets to see how suede works across different silhouettes.
Cowhide, Goatskin, Lambskin and Sheepskin
Leather species affect the character of a jacket, but there is no single hide that is automatically best for every design.
Cowhide
Cowhide is commonly chosen for jackets that need:
- structure
- substantial hand feel
- good resistance to everyday wear
- defined panel construction
It works particularly well for biker, trucker, western and heavier jacket designs.
Goatskin
Goatskin often combines relatively moderate weight with useful strength. Its natural surface can show more visible texture than very smooth lambskin.
It works particularly well in:
- bombers
- flight jackets
- café racers
- suede styles
Lambskin
Lambskin is known for a softer, more supple hand.
It is often chosen for:
- fashion bombers
- blazers
- softer café racers
- cropped jackets
- garments where drape matters
Softness should not be confused with poor quality. It simply serves a different purpose from firmer cowhide.
Sheepskin
Sheepskin can be processed as conventional leather or with its wool retained.
When the natural wool remains attached to the skin, the result can be genuine shearling.
This construction is particularly important for cold-weather aviation outerwear such as the B-3.
Full Grain, Top Grain and “Genuine Leather”
Another area where leather terminology becomes misleading is the idea that every leather term belongs to one simple universal quality ladder.
Full-Grain Leather
Full grain retains the natural grain surface rather than sanding it away to create greater uniformity.
That means characteristics such as:
- grain variation
- natural markings
- pores
- small surface differences
may remain visible.
Full grain is not automatically the perfect leather for every garment. The hide still needs an appropriate thickness, temper, finish and panel quality for the jacket being made.
Top-Grain Leather
Top-grain leather has had the grain surface altered or refined to some degree.
This can create a cleaner and more uniform appearance. High-quality top-grain leather can still be an excellent jacket material.
Corrected-Grain Leather
Corrected leather has been mechanically altered more substantially and may use an embossed or coated surface.
That does not automatically make every corrected-grain jacket poor quality, but buyers should understand what they are purchasing.
“Genuine Leather”
“Genuine leather” communicates that a material is real leather.
It is not a universally standardized third-tier leather grade.
A product described only as “genuine leather” provides less useful information than one identifying:
- species
- grain
- thickness
- tanning method
- finish
The more transparent the specification, the easier the jacket is to evaluate.
Leather Thickness: Thicker Is Not Automatically Better
Jacket leather thickness is commonly stated in millimetres.
Many fashion leather jackets fall somewhere around the 0.9–1.3 mm range, although appropriate specifications vary by leather and design.
The useful question is not:
“Which jacket has the thickest leather?”
It is:
“Is this thickness appropriate for this jacket?”
A soft lambskin bomber does not need the same leather specification as a structured cowhide biker jacket.
Genuine shearling also has different construction requirements because the wool remains attached to the skin.
Thickness should therefore be evaluated alongside:
- leather species
- temper
- silhouette
- lining
- intended use
Leather Temper: Soft, Medium or Firm
Temper describes how soft, flexible or firm a leather feels and behaves.
It has a major effect on how the finished jacket hangs on the body.
Soft temper
Often useful for:
- lambskin jackets
- relaxed silhouettes
- drapey bombers
- leather blazers
Medium temper
Useful where a jacket needs a balance of movement and visible structure.
Firmer temper
Can work well for:
- structured biker jackets
- some trucker designs
- heavier utility silhouettes
A thick jacket is not necessarily firm, and a thin jacket is not necessarily soft.
Thickness and temper describe different characteristics.
Tanning and Finishing Matter Too
Two jackets made from the same animal species can look and feel very different depending on tanning and finishing.
Common surface directions include:
- smooth
- waxed
- distressed
- polished
- suede
- vintage-finished
- aniline or semi-aniline where specifically documented
Waxing can create tonal depth. Controlled distressing can give leather an intentionally aged appearance. Suede produces a napped surface rather than a smooth grain face.
None of those finishes is universally superior. The important question is whether the finish suits the jacket's intended character and use.
Leather Jacket Construction: What Actually Matters
Material quality alone does not determine the quality of a finished jacket.
A good hide can still be poorly cut, stitched or assembled.
At Ebon Saint's Sialkot workshop, construction decisions vary according to the material, pattern and application instead of using one fixed specification for every jacket.
Stitch Density
More stitches are not automatically better.
Excessively dense stitching can create unnecessary perforations in leather, while stitching that is too loose may provide insufficient seam control.
Across Ebon Saint leather outerwear, visible topstitching commonly falls around 6–9 stitches per inch, depending on:
- leather thickness
- seam location
- garment style
- visual design
Bonded nylon or bonded polyester thread is selected according to the application.
Zippers and Hardware
A larger zipper is not automatically a better zipper for every application.
Gauge should suit the part of the jacket where the zipper is being used.
- lighter gauges can suit pockets or cuffs
- medium gauges can suit lighter front closures
- heavier gauges such as #8 can suit substantial main closures
Ebon Saint commonly uses YKK #3, #5 and #8 zippers depending on the jacket and application.
Reinforcement
Areas that experience repeated stress deserve more attention than purely decorative sections.
Depending on the jacket, those areas can include:
- pocket corners
- zipper attachment points
- closure points
- high-movement seams
- hardware mounting areas
Reinforcement should be applied where construction requires it rather than added everywhere simply to make a jacket look heavier.
Lining
Different lining materials suit different applications.
Polyester can provide practical everyday lining. Viscose can create a smoother interior feel. Satin may suit more refined designs, while faux shearling can add insulation and texture to appropriate winter jackets.
No single lining is automatically superior in every jacket.
How Ebon Saint Selects Leather for Different Jacket Styles
One of the most important manufacturing decisions happens before stitching begins.
Leather can be examined for:
- thickness
- grain consistency
- color
- temper
- stretch
- natural scars
- surface defects
- suitability for the intended panel
The best hide for one jacket is not necessarily the best hide for another.
A structured biker jacket may require more body. A lambskin blazer needs enough softness to drape. Suede panels need attention to nap direction.
Natural hair-on cowhide requires attention to hair quality, markings and the relationship between adjoining panels, while shearling requires inspection of both the skin and natural wool.
Pattern cutting therefore considers the characteristics of the hide rather than simply placing templates wherever they fit.
More detail about leather selection, cutting, stitching, hardware and quality control is available on the Ebon Saint Craftsmanship page.
Which Type of Leather Jacket Should You Choose?
A useful way to narrow the options is to start with how the jacket will actually be worn rather than choosing only by appearance.
| Jacket Type | Character | Typical Fit | Good For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Double Rider | Bold, hardware-heavy | Regular / slim | Statement fashion |
| Café Racer | Minimal, clean | Slim / regular | Everyday wear |
| A-1 Bomber | Heritage, button front | Regular | Vintage flight styling |
| A-2 / Flight Bomber | Classic aviation | Regular | Versatile casual wear |
| V-Bomber | Contemporary bomber | Varies by design | Modern bomber styling |
| B-3 Shearling | Substantial, winter-focused | Regular | Cold weather |
| Trucker | Workwear | Regular | Casual layering |
| Western | Ranch / cowboy | Regular | Western styling |
| Varsity | Sport-inspired | Relaxed / regular | Casual wear |
| Blazer | Tailored | Regular / slim | Smart casual |
| Field Jacket | Utility | Regular | Everyday / workwear styling |
| Peacoat | Structured | Regular | Smart winter wear |
Fit, Climate & Intended Use
Fit Matters as Much as Style
A leather jacket should be judged by more than the size printed on its label.
Useful measurements include:
- chest
- shoulders
- sleeve length
- waist where relevant
- overall jacket length
It is also important to understand whether a size chart gives body measurements or finished-garment measurements.
They are not interchangeable.
Different silhouettes also require different amounts of ease.
An oversized bomber should not fit like a close café racer. A B-3 shearling jacket must account for the volume created by its natural wool. A cropped jacket intentionally ends higher than a conventional hip-length silhouette.
Do not automatically size up or down based only on the jacket style. Compare the actual measurements instead.
Ebon Saint's Size Guide provides additional guidance.
Choosing by Climate
Climate should influence a purchase just as much as appearance.
Mild and transitional weather
Consider:
- lambskin jackets
- suede jackets
- uninsulated bombers
- trucker jackets
- café racers
Cooler weather
Consider:
- more substantial leather
- lined bombers
- insulated leather jackets
- structured jackets with layering room
Winter
Consider:
- genuine shearling
- insulated outerwear
- longer leather coats
Avoid treating leather thickness, shearling depth or padding GSM as a universal temperature rating.
Actual warmth depends on the complete garment, wind, humidity, layering, fit, activity level and individual cold tolerance.
Fashion Biker Jacket vs Protective Motorcycle Jacket
This distinction is important because motorcycle-inspired fashion and certified protective clothing are not the same product category.
A jacket can have:
- an asymmetric zipper
- padded-looking shoulders
- heavy cowhide
- racing stripes
- a café-racer collar
and still be fashion outerwear.
In the UK and European context, the EN 17092 series covers protective garments for motorcycle riders. BS EN 17092-1:2020 covers test methods, while other parts of the series define garment classes and requirements.
The standard is subject to review and revision, so buyers looking for protective equipment should check the actual certification stated on the individual garment rather than relying on a style name.
See the British Standards Institution information for BS EN 17092-1 .
If an Ebon Saint jacket is not specifically described with an applicable protective certification, it should be treated as fashion outerwear rather than certified motorcycle protective equipment.
Care & Buying Checklist
How to Care for Different Leather Jackets
Care should follow the actual leather type and finish rather than using one routine for every leather garment.
Smooth leather
Keep the jacket away from prolonged moisture, concentrated heat and unsuitable household cleaners.
Conditioning should depend on the leather, finish and actual condition of the garment rather than following an arbitrary schedule.
Suede
Use products intended specifically for suede.
A suede brush can help restore the nap, but ordinary smooth-leather conditioners should not automatically be used on a suede surface.
For more detail, see Ebon Saint's Suede Jacket Care Guide .
Shearling
Shearling requires care for both the leather surface and the natural wool.
Avoid machine washing and concentrated artificial heat. Significant staining may require a professional experienced specifically with leather and sheepskin.
General storage
Store leather outerwear on a supportive hanger in a cool, ventilated environment.
Avoid:
- machine washing
- radiators
- tumble dryers
- prolonged direct sunlight
- long-term compression
More detailed guidance is available in Ebon Saint's Leather Jacket Care Guide .
What to Check Before Buying Any Leather Jacket
Before purchasing, look beyond the photograph and silhouette.
A detailed product page should tell you as much as possible about:
- Leather species — cowhide, goatskin, lambskin, sheepskin or another specified hide.
- Grain or surface — full grain, top grain, suede or another construction.
- Thickness — where relevant.
- Temper — soft, medium or firm where available.
- Tanning method — where verified.
- Finish — smooth, waxed, distressed, suede and so on.
- Hardware — zipper type, gauge and finish where relevant.
- Lining — polyester, viscose, satin, shearling or another material.
- Fit — slim, regular, relaxed or oversized.
- Intended use — fashion, winter wear or certified protective equipment.
Technical specifications should not exist simply to make a product description sound complicated.
Their purpose is to help the buyer understand what the jacket is made from, how it is constructed and whether it suits the intended use.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the main types of leather jackets?
Common leather-jacket styles include the double rider or biker jacket, café racer, A-1 bomber, A-2 or flight bomber, G-1 aviator, B-3 shearling jacket, trucker, western jacket, varsity jacket, leather blazer, field jacket, peacoat and leather trench coat.
Which type of leather jacket is most versatile?
For many wardrobes, a clean café racer, leather bomber or trucker is among the easiest styles to combine with everyday clothing because the silhouettes are relatively straightforward.
The most versatile option still depends on climate, preferred fit, footwear and the rest of the buyer's wardrobe.
Which leather is best for a jacket?
There is no single best species for every jacket.
Cowhide is useful where structure and substance are wanted. Goatskin can offer a useful balance of weight and strength. Lambskin provides a softer hand and greater drape, while sheepskin is particularly important for genuine shearling construction.
Is full-grain leather always better?
Not automatically.
Full grain preserves the natural grain surface, but the leather still needs the right thickness, temper, finish and construction for the garment being made.
A suitable, well-made top-grain jacket can be preferable to a poorly constructed jacket that uses the phrase “full grain” mainly as a marketing claim.
Is suede real leather?
Yes. Genuine suede is leather.
Suede describes the material surface rather than one jacket silhouette, so suede can be used for bombers, truckers, western jackets, bikers and other designs.
Should a leather jacket fit tightly?
Not necessarily.
Fit depends on the intended pattern. A café racer may be designed closer to the body, while an oversized bomber intentionally contains considerably more ease.
In either case, the jacket should allow normal movement without severe pulling or distortion.
Are biker jackets protective motorcycle jackets?
Not automatically.
A biker appearance does not establish abrasion resistance, impact protection or motorcycle-garment certification.
Buyers who need protective riding equipment should verify the actual certification and protective specifications of the individual garment.
Final Thoughts
Understanding leather jackets becomes much easier once the terminology is separated correctly.
A bomber is a style. Lambskin is a leather species. Full grain describes the grain surface. Waxed describes a finish. Soft temper describes how the leather behaves.
Those characteristics work together to determine what a jacket looks like, how it feels, how it moves and where it makes sense to wear.
Rather than looking for one supposedly “best” leather jacket, look for the right relationship between silhouette, material, construction, fit and intended use.
That relationship is more useful than relying on a single marketing term, leather thickness number or style name when deciding which jacket is right for you.